Buying a previously-owned car
See Figure 4

With new car prices skyrocketing, many car buyers are turning to used cars. The old saw that you're only buying someone else's trouble is not true today.

Approximately 13-14 million used cars are sold every year in the United States by dealers, private sellers, and renting/leasing agencies, totaling more than $21 billion. Almost 75% of all passenger cars purchased for private use are previously owned.

Obviously, many buyers are convinced that a quality used car is a bargain. The Hertz Corporation annually publishes its compilation of car operating costs, and their figures show a used car can be a bargain. The figures in the accompanying chart are rounded off to the nearest cent per mile.

People sell or trade cars for all kinds of reasons, and if you're willing to compromise a little on the car of your dreams, you may get a good buy. First, decide what kind of car you want and start looking for it, either privately or on new or used car lots.

Cars on used car lots are easier to find, but they frequently cost more than those offered for sale privately in newspapers. The reason is simple-the dealer has to make money over what he paid for the car to stay in business. While private cars may be less expensive, they require considerably more legwork to track down and weed out the clunkers. You are also strictly on your own when buying a used car from a private party. True, you don't have to deal with a used car salesman who's a pro. However, there's no law requiring honesty from private citizens selling used cars, either.

Once you've located a promising car, how can you lessen the chances that you're buying someone else's trouble? Start by following these shopping rules:

1. Never shop for used cars at night. The glare of bright lights makes it easy to overlook body imperfections.
2. Take along a small pocket magnet. Casually try the magnet in locations all along the fenders. Anywhere the magnet doesn't stick, beware. The fender has been filled with plastic.
3. Ask to see the title. Many states identify cars that were bought out of state with a code, and the codes are usually explained somewhere on the title. Cars on a lot were frequently bought at an auction. Occasionally, a used-car dealer may get an exceptional car at auction, but for the most part, the auction is a dumping ground for cars that other dealers took in trade and were not worth reselling. Generally, you should beware of a car that was bought out of state or at an auction.
4. If the car is on a lot, ask for the name and address of the former owner from the title and try to contact the owner. No reputable dealer will refuse the information. If he does, walk away.
5. Write down the year, model, and serial number before you buy any used car. Then dial 1-800-424-9393, the toll-free number of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) and ask the clerk if the car has ever been included on any manufacturer's recall list. If so, make sure the needed repairs were made.

Used Car inspection checklist
See Figures 5, 6 and 7

In addition to making sure everything works (wipers, radio, clock, gauges, heater, defroster, lights, turn signals, etc.), carefully evaluate these areas on any used car you are considering buying. The number preceding each paragraph corresponds to the numbers in the accompanying drawing.

Figure 5 Inspect the area around the wheel wells on used cars  for rust and corrosion.

Figure 6 Used car checklist. Refer to text for more information.

1. Mileage (1) -- Average mileage is about 12,000 miles (19,300km) per year. The numbers should be straight across the odometer.
2. Paint (2) -- Check around tailpipe, molding, and windows for overspray indicating the car has been repainted.
3. Body damage (3) -- Check where the body panels meet; severe misalignment indicates crash work. Sight down the contours of the body panels; ripples indicate bodywork. Check overall condition of moldings, bumpers, and grille.
4. Leaks (4) -- Look under the car. There are no normal "leaks," other than water from the A/C condenser.
5. Tires (5) -- Check the tire pressure. A common used-car trick is to pump the tire pressure up to make the car easier to roll. Check the tread wear. Uneven wear is a clue that the front end needs alignment.
6. Rust (6) -- Check all around the car (fenders, doors, rocker panels, rain gutters, window moldings, wheelwells, under floor-mats) for signs of rust. Any rust at all will be a problem. There is no inexpensive way to stop the spread of rust. The only sure way is to replace the rusted part.

7. Shocks (7) -- Check the shock absorbers by bouncing each corner of the car. Good shocks will not bounce more than twice after you let go.
8. Interior (8) -- Check the entire interior. You're looking for an interior condition that doesn't agree with the overall condition of the car. Reasonable wear is expected, but be suspicious of new seatcovers on sagging seats, new pedal pads and worn armrests. These indicate an attempt to cover up hard use. Pull back the carpets and look for evidence of water leaks or flooding. Look for evidences of a leak or rust in the trunk. New welds indicate recent crash work. Look for missing door handles, control knobs, and other miscellaneous pieces of hardware. Check for proper operation of all lights and signals. Look for scratches and cracks in all glass.
9. Hoses, belts (9) -- Check all belts and hoses for wear or weak spots.
10. Battery terminals (10) -- Low electrolyte level, corroded terminals, and/or cracked case indicate a lack of maintenance.
11. Radiator/coolant (11) -- Look for corrosion or rust around the radiator, signifying a leak. Rust in the coolant indicates a lack of maintenance.
12. Air filter (12) -- A dirty air filter usually means a lack of preventive maintenance.
13. Ignition wires (13) -- Check the ignition wires for cracks, burned spots, or wear. Worn wires will have to be replaced.
14. Oil level (14) -- If the oil level is low, chances are even that the engine uses oil. Beware of water in the oil (cracked block), excessively thick oil (used to quiet a noisy engine), or thin dirty oil with a distinct gasoline smell (internal problems in the engine).
15. Automatic transmission (15) -- Pull the automatic transmission dipstick out when the engine is running. The level should read "Full," and the fluid should be clear and bright red. Dark brown or black fluid, or fluid that has a distinct burnt odor, signals a transmission in need of repair or overhaul.
16. Exhaust (16) -- Check the color of the exhaust smoke. Blue smoke indicates worn rings; black smoke can indicate burnt valves or that a tune-up is needed.
17. Spark plugs (17) -- Remove one of the spark plugs (the most accessible will do). An engine in good condition will show plugs with a light tan or gray-firing tip. Once you have checked the car out thoroughly and taken careful note of any problems as outlined above, you can come to a reliable initial evaluation of the condition of the car and the care it has received. Below is a guide to help you. If your inspection turns up problems in two of the areas below, or in only one of them but a problem shows up in your road test, proceed with caution. That car is in less than excellent condition.

Illustration numbers 1-8:
Problems in more than two areas indicate a lack of maintenance, and you should beware.

Illustration numbers 9-13:
Problems in any of these areas indicate a lack of proper care, too, but can usually be corrected with a tune-up or relatively simple parts replacement.

Illustration numbers 14-17:
Be very wary of problems in either the engine or automatic transmission. These can mean major expense. Walk away from any car with problems in both areas.

Figure 7 An old inspection sticker on a car can be the sign of big problems.

Take a road test and get a mechanic's opinion

If you are satisfied with the apparent condition of the car, take it out on a road test. The results of the road test should agree with your original evaluation. Check for these things on the road:

1. Engine performance -- Should be peppy whether cold or warm, with plenty of power and good pickup. It should respond smoothly through all the gears.
2. Brakes -- Should provide quick, firm stops with no signs of noise, pulling, or fading pedal.
3. Steering -- Should provide sure control with no binding, harshness, or looseness and no shimmy in the wheel. Noise or vibration from the steering wheel when turning the car means trouble.
4. Clutch, manual transmission -- Should give quick, smooth response with easy shifting. The clutch pedal should have about 1-1 ½" play before it disengages the clutch. Start engine, set parking brake, put in first gear and slowly release the clutch pedal. Engine should stall when pedal is one-half to three-quarters of the way up.
5. Automatic transmission -- Should shift rapidly and smoothly, with no hesitation and no noise.
6. Differential -- No noise or thumps.
7. Driveshaft, universal joints -- Vibration and shimmy could mean driveshaft problems. Clicking sound at low speeds means worn U-joints.
8. Suspension -- Hit bumps going slow and fast. A car that bounces has weak shocks. Shimmying may be due to driveshaft problems.
9. Frame -- Wet the tires and drive in a straight line on concrete. Tracks should show two straight lines, not four.

After inspecting the car yourself, or if you are not sure how to, it is usually a good idea to take a car to your local trusted mechanic for his or her opinion. It won't take a mechanic more than an hour to check the car over for any problems that may need addressing. Then you can decide for yourself whether or not to purchase the car upon yours and the mechanic's opinions.

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